TL;DR
By Malene Birger introduced its Resort 2027 collection, showcasing a more ladylike, polished aesthetic with retro influences and tactile details. The collection marks a new direction under Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt.
By Malene Birger has unveiled its Resort 2027 collection, signaling a shift toward a more ladylike and polished aesthetic under creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt. The collection emphasizes femininity, retro-inspired details, and tactile, elegant designs, marking a new direction for the brand.
The collection features a range of refined pieces, including a black pantsuit with slim trousers and a collarless jacket edged with black and white braid. The design team aimed for a softer, more sensual look, with pieces like a knit cape and skirt embedded with pearls designed to evoke sound and touch.
Textural elements are prominent, with pettable doe-patterned pony hair used for coats and mini skirts paired with crisp pink shirts. A cardigan with felted, raised appliques inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s flower studies adds to the tactile focus. Movement is incorporated through fringe detailing on a cape-front dress and a tassel-trimmed A-line trench, reflecting a blend of Italian interior influences and Poiret-isms.
Why It Matters
This collection signifies a strategic shift for By Malene Birger toward a more feminine and polished image, diverging from previous bohemian influences. It reflects broader trends in luxury fashion favoring elegance, tactile detail, and retro-inspired refinement, potentially impacting the brand’s positioning and customer appeal.

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Background
Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt took over as creative director, steering the brand toward a more ladylike aesthetic. The Resort 2027 collection builds on recent fashion trends emphasizing femininity and tactile details, while also referencing historical influences such as Italian interiors and Poiret-isms. This marks a notable change from the brand’s previous bohemian style.
“The collection is fully in the swing when it comes to dressing smartly, but with ease.”
— an anonymous researcher
“When describing the collection as ‘a little bit retro,’ the designer means it’s polished and feminine, not vintage.”
— an anonymous researcher
What Remains Unclear
Details about the commercial reception of the collection and how it will influence the brand’s future collections remain unclear. It is also not yet confirmed how customers and critics will respond to this new direction.
What’s Next
Further presentations and reviews are expected to evaluate the collection’s impact. The brand may also release additional visuals and marketing materials to promote the new aesthetic, with potential updates on sales performance and consumer feedback expected in the coming months.
Key Questions
What is the main theme of the Resort 2027 collection?
The main theme emphasizes femininity, retro-inspired details, and tactile, elegant designs that are polished yet easy to wear.
Who is the creative director behind this collection?
Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt is the creative director leading the collection’s direction.
How does this collection differ from previous By Malene Birger lines?
It shifts toward a more ladylike, polished aesthetic with retro influences, moving away from the brand’s earlier bohemian style.
Will this collection influence future designs?
It is likely, as the collection signals a new strategic direction, but specific future plans have not been publicly confirmed.
When will more details about the collection’s commercial success be available?
Details are not yet available; further reviews and sales data are expected in the upcoming months.
Source: Vogue