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Paris Fashion Week begins the final leg of the spring/summer 2027 season, headlined by Matthieu Blazy’s second Chanel collection and just two designer debuts: Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven. Valentino and Maison Margiela return to the Paris calendar after showing elsewhere.
Paris Fashion Week opens tomorrow, closing out the spring/summer 2027 season with the industry’s most watched slate of shows. According to ELLE’s preview, the calendar spans legacy houses — Chanel, Dior, Celine, Givenchy — alongside independent labels such as Julie Kegels and Matières Fécales, with anticipation centered on Matthieu Blazy’s second Chanel collection and just two designer debuts. The week offers the final read on where warm-weather dressing is headed before the fashion press turns to the next cycle, building on the seasons we’ve already covered from Milan Fashion Week SS27.
The biggest storyline runs through the houses in the midst of creative transitions. Matthieu Blazy is set to present his second spring/summer collection for Chanel, where, per ELLE, his fresh eye on the house’s codes — and possibly a new take on the naked shoe — will be closely watched. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson continues his tenure, while Michael Rider does the same at Celine. Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten, and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga round out the roster of designers still early in defining their visions at storied houses.
After several seasons crowded with high-profile handovers, this edition features only two designer debuts: Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, according to ELLE. Henry faces particular scrutiny as he builds on Nicolas Di Felice’s revival of the Space Age house.
The calendar also marks notable returns. Valentino comes back to Paris after staging its fall 2026 show in Rome, and Maison Margiela returns following a collection presented in Shanghai. ELLE also lists Ester Manas, Sacai, and Christopher Esber as back on the schedule after time away. On the emerging side, recent LVMH Prize winner Julie Kegels shows Monday afternoon, Central Saint Martins graduate Fidan Novruzova makes her Paris debut, and Georgian label Situationist, known for architectural tailoring, rejoins the calendar alongside Zomer, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, and Matières Fécales.
Why the Paris Schedule Sets the Season’s Tone
Paris is the closing stop of the four-city fashion month, and its shows carry outsized weight in determining the trends that will define spring/summer 2027 retail and editorial coverage. As ELLE notes, the week serves as a final read on where warm-weather dressing is headed.
The creative-director question is equally consequential. With Blazy at Chanel, Anderson at Dior, Rider at Celine, Burton at Givenchy, Klausner at Dries Van Noten, and Piccioli at Balenciaga all still in their early chapters, this season offers buyers and editors a clearer sense of whether these appointments are translating into commercial and critical momentum. Second and third collections are traditionally where a designer’s direction either consolidates or gets questioned.
The mix also matters for the industry’s broader economics: the return of Valentino and Maison Margiela to Paris — both of which took shows abroad — signals renewed commitment to the city’s calendar, while slots for emerging names like the LVMH Prize-winning Kegels indicate where luxury groups and press attention may flow next.
A Quieter Debut Season After Handover Mania
Paris has spent several seasons absorbed by what ELLE calls debut mania — a run of high-profile creative-director handovers that put new designers at major houses under intense scrutiny. That wave has largely passed, and the current moment belongs to second and third collections rather than first impressions.
Against that backdrop, the fall 2026 season saw some houses experiment with location: Valentino showed in Rome, while Maison Margiela presented in Shanghai. Both now return to Paris. At Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice’s tenure was widely credited with reviving the house’s Space Age identity, setting a high bar for incoming designer Drew Henry. On the emerging front, Brussels-based Julie Kegels enters the week with fresh momentum from her recent LVMH Prize win.
“The fashion set has one last stop, and it’s a big one.”
— ELLE
What Can’t Be Predicted Before the Runways
Preview coverage is, by definition, forward-looking: until the shows happen, nothing about the collections themselves — silhouettes, casting, or specific pieces — is confirmed. ELLE’s suggestion of a new take on the naked shoe at Chanel is framed as speculation, not an announced detail.
It is also unclear whether additional schedule changes, off-calendar presentations, or surprise guest appearances will emerge during the week, as often happens in Paris. The exact running order and show times for some independent labels may also shift, per standard fashion week practice.
From Paris Runways to the Next Cycle
Shows begin tomorrow and run through the official Paris calendar, with Julie Kegels showing Monday afternoon. Expect immediate coverage of Blazy’s Chanel, the two debuts at Courrèges and Carven, and the Valentino and Margiela returns.
Once the week closes, attention shifts to the commercial aftermath: buyer appointments, celebrity placements from the collections, and the trend reports that distill the season. Later in the year, the spring/summer 2027 collections will reach retail, offering the first concrete test of how the Paris schedule’s most watched bets perform with consumers.
Key Questions
When does Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2027 begin?
According to ELLE’s preview, the shows begin tomorrow relative to publication, making Paris the final stop of the spring/summer 2027 season after New York, London, and Milan.
Which designer debuts are happening this season?
There are two: Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven. It is a notably shorter debut list than recent seasons, which saw many high-profile creative-director handovers.
Why is Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel show so anticipated?
It is his second spring/summer collection for Chanel, and per ELLE, his reinterpretation of the house’s codes — possibly including a new take on the naked shoe — will be closely watched as an early measure of his tenure.
Which brands are returning to the Paris calendar?
Valentino returns after showing fall 2026 in Rome, and Maison Margiela comes back after presenting in Shanghai. Ester Manas, Sacai, and Christopher Esber are also back after time away, according to ELLE.
Which emerging designers should readers watch?
ELLE highlights LVMH Prize winner Julie Kegels (showing Monday afternoon), Paris debutante Fidan Novruzova, the Georgian label Situationist, plus Zomer, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, and Matières Fécales.
Source: rss
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